(Editor's note: Mr. Huff sent the editor this article and a set of his swabs from Seoul where he holds the position of Fulbright Lecturer in Music. Douglas plays principal bassoon in the Korean National Symphony Orchestra and teaches a class in music literature at Tan-Guk University. I would like to recommend that the lead weights of these swabs and others of the same type be covered over with a protective layer of sewn cotton or (at least) good quality electrical tape. This will protect the very sensitive mirror-smooth finish of the rubber linings of the wing joint and small side of the boot joint from any possible scratches or nicks. In North America it is easy to adapt a fine clarinet swab for use in cleaning the bassoon's tenor joint; I use a LeBlanc drop-through cotton swab with cloth-covered weight. It needs only to be narrowed on either side at the widest points so that the maximum width of material is 4 1/4 inches (709 mm.). The edges are hemmed to prevent unraveling.)
Since good pull-thru swabs are virtually unavailable on the commercial market and since they are seemingly so simple to make, many bassoonists attempt to make their own. Unfortunately the results are often inadequate. Typical homemade swabs are usually inefficient and they frequently leave behind bits of lint and cloth in the instrument. Worst of all, they often become stuck in the bore. The purpose of this article is to provide the bassoonist with the necessary information to select the components for, construct and use a safe and efficient pull-thru swab.
The pull-thru swab consists of three components: cloth, line and drop weight. In the following section the characteristics of each component are listed and described.
100% cotton - This material absorbs moisture more effectively than synthetics.
Knit weave - The nature of this weave causes the material to coil inwardly upon itself, thus eliminating the need for hems to prevent unraveling.
2 1/2 length - The length must be at least 2 1/2' so that one end of the swab is exposed at all times. In the event the swab becomes stuck in the bore, removal from either end will thus be possible .
Circular design - This design enables one to remove a "stuck " swab more easily. (See USE.) It also facilitates attachment of the line.
Proper bassoon maintenance requires the use of a swab to remove moisture from inside the instrument, thereby preventing damage to the wood and pads. Three basic types of bassoon swabs exist:
1) PLUNGERS: The least efficient, potentially the most damaging and unfortunately the most common type is similar to a bottle brush made of cotton fibers set in intertwined wire. With a plunger swab one cannot effectively remove moisture from the U-joint and the metal end can scratch the bore and possibly dent the U joint. In addition, pieces of thread often remain inside the instrument and this can cause leaks and other obvious problems.
2) CLEANING RODS: More efficient than the plunger, the cleaning rod consists of a piece of cloth wrapped around a metal rod with an eyelet at one end. If it's used improperly, one may accidentally scratch the bore or dent the U-joint with the eyelet of the rod. Also, as with the plungers, cleaning rods are ineffective in removing moisture from the U-joint.
3) PULL-THRU SWABS: The most efficient of the three types, the pull-thru swab is simply a line with a drop weight attached to one end and a piece of cloth to the other. When it's used properly, one can remove nearly all the moisture from the bassoon -- including the U joint with minimal risk of damage to the instrument. However, a poorly constructed and improperly used pull-thru swab can be as - damaging as either of the other types.
Variable thickness - In order to remove moisture efficiently the thickness of the swab must correspond to the narrowest part of the bore of the joint being swabbed. Because the bassoon has a conical bore, a swab which works well in the boot joint will be too large for the wing joint. Therefore a separate swab is necessary for each. (The bell and the long joint are relatively free of moisture and do not require swabbing.)
White - A white swab will show dirt more readily and thus clue owner as to when wash or replace it.
80-110 lbs. test fishing line - Line of this strength will rarely break, yet it's also light enough so that there is no problem for the drop weight to pull it thru the instrument.
Braided dacron - The quality and diameter of this type of line is such that it will not cut into ones hand when pulling thru the swab.
2 1/2' and 3 1/2' lengths - These lengths ensure that the sinkers pull thru only the line, not the swab. The-longer length (3 1/2') is for the boot joint.
Lark's head & loop knots - These knots are very secure and can be easily adjusted so that the cloth may be removed and either washed or replaced.
Lead fishing sinkers (5/32 oz. and 9/32 oz.) - The heavier sinker is needed to pull the longer line around the U-joint. In either case heavier sinkers can be used, but the diameter of each sinker can be no larger than the smallest part of the bore of the joint being swabbed.
Wire attachments - These attachments make it easier to secure the line to the sinker.
Sinker covering (optional) - In order to prevent direct contact with lead as well as to prevent possible scratching of the bore, one may opt to cover the sinker with some of the cotton material previously described.
Purchase the following items:
1) A white, XL, 100% cotton T-shirt (available at any department store).
2) Two fishing sinkers, as described in COMPONENTS. ("Grizzly" SWIVEL SINKERS, sizes "7" and "9" are best for this purpose. If unavailable at your local sporting goods store, they may be obtained from: Maxwell Mfg. Co., Vancouver, WA 98660.)
3) Approximately six feet of braided dacron 80-100 lbs. test fishing line (available at most sporting goods stores).
After washing the T-shirt in order to remove any lint or sizing, follow the construction steps below:
STEP 1) With a pair of scissors cut the hem off the bottom of the T-shirt. (Illustration I)
STEP 2) Measure and cut off two latitudinal strips (5" and 9"). These form the swab loops. (Illustration I)
STEP 3) At each end of a 2 1/2' length and a 3 1/2' length of fishing line tie a one inch (1") loop knot. (Illustration II)
STEP 4) Attach the swab loops and the sinkers to the lines accordingly, the heavier sinker and the thicker swab Ioop to the longer line. (Illustration III)
Use of the pull-thru swab involves two basic steps: PRELIMINARY PROCEDURE* and SWABBING. Moisture accumulates in the tone holes of the instrument as well as in the bore. Much of this can be removed by first drawing the moisture into the bore (PRELIMINARY PROCEDURE) and then running the swab thru the instrument (SWABBING).
Boot joint
STEP 1) Thru the lined side of the boot joint (the opening into which the wing joint fits) pour out the water which has accumulated in the U-joint.
STEP 2) Cover all openings by fingering "low E" with your right hand and by placing the palm of your left hand over the large bore opening and your mouth over the small bore opening.
STEP 3) Draw the moisture from the tone holes into the bore of the instrument by first creating a suction and then opening and closing each tone hole individually.
Wing joint
The procedure is basically the same.
*Courtesy of Charles Ullery. St. Paul Chamber Orchestra.
Boot joint
STEP 1) Deposit the sinker of the large swab into the large opening (the unlined side) of the joint.
STEP 2) Turn the joint upside-down so that the sinker falls out the smaller opening.
STEP 3) After the sinker comes out the smaller opening, wrap the line around your hand and then slowly and gently pull the swab thru the joint.
Wing joint
The procedure is basically the same.
If the swab is too large to pass easily thru the joint, pull it back out the larger opening. Then stretch the swab loop by pulling it between the thumb and forefinger of each hand. If the swab is still too large, then trimming the latitudinal strip may be necessary. A moderate amount of friction is necessary for the swab to be effective. Therefore, if the swab passes too freely thru the bore, one may have to make a larger swab for that joint.
Occasionally a swab may become stuck. In this case gently tug alternately one of the single strands of the swab loops towards the larger bore opening if possible. If this proves fruitless, then simply leave the swab inside the joint for an hour or so until some of the moisture evaporates. The damp swab, which has expanded due to moisture absorption, will slowly dry out and shrink to its original size and thus make extraction possible. (N.B. A "stuck" swab is invariably the result of hastily pulling a tangled swab thru the instrument. With proper use this should never happen.)
A pull-thru bassoon swab made to the above specifications and used in the correct manner will be relatively problem free, will reduce potential water damage and thus add years to the life of your instrument.